I Can Eat Again...Now that Ramadan is Over

While I naively in my teens yearned to visit Jordan due to the fact that the country shared the same name as my childhood idol, Michael Jordan, it is a country that is probably most well known for its association with Indiana Jones. The elusive location of the illusory Holy Grail was purported to be in Petra...

But Jordan holds a beautiful place in my heart for the peaceful country and people, which is ironically located landlocked in between Syria and Egypt in the Middle East. However, Jordan holds claim for its peace and neutrality in the violent wars of recent past. It is true. Jordan is probably one of the cleanest and safest places I’ve visited on my trip. There is no enmity between people – peace to all.

It was quite the pleasant nature to land in Amman from the chaotic scenery of neighboring Egypt. The airport granted a personable great first impression with westernized amenities and organization that seemed so foreign a day earlier. I let out a refreshing sigh of joyous pleasure as I let myself go in one of their western toilets. But outrageously expensive prices! Jordan was quite expensive as I paid my $57 visa (and later $14 exit fee). And what’s tricky about Jordan is that the Jordanian Dollar (JD) is stronger than the dollar (0.70JD to $1USD at the time), so it appears as if everything is cheap while equipped with the mindset that you are in the Middle East.

I pouted and handed over my dollars to the immigration officer, who offered no empathy whatsoever and subsequently headed towards the bus terminal with an innate, immature anger that a spoiled kid would possess if he didn't get what he wanted. I was headed towards the capital, Amman, ecstatic that Ramadan would be ending that day, and I could finally stuff myself with falafels during the day without feeling guilty. I arrived towards my $11 dorm hostel to the relief of an AC dorm filled with cool and mature folks vs. the near-empty, hot and clammy hostels of Egypt. I plumped myself on my bunk bed thinking how nice and calm Jordan was compared to Egypt. It felt like paradise on desert. I then fell into a deep nap at that pleasant thought...

And woke up several hours later in a drowsy state, stomach growling, but soon forcefully woke myself up like a kid on Christmas day at the thought that it was dinner time and Ramadan was ending soon! I plopped myself up, readied myself to start regaining those lost pounds in the past month, and raced towards the popular Hashem restaurant down the block known for its falafels. It was packed, and I had to sit next to strangers who luckily didn’t stare at me like most people, “What the hell is this lone Asian doing here?” They were most likely also happily anticipating the end of Ramadan as well, with plates of food ready in front of them and forks and knives ready for the killing. The music started playing and people cheered and started slaying their foods. So did I. It was a feast. It was a wondrous celebration to end a month-long streak of simplicity and spiritual detox. Streets were filled with people cheering, munching, and gulping like monsters while dressed in their newest and finest attire to mark the end of the glorious Ramadan. To say I was happy that I could eat again was an understatement.

A few days in Amman are pretty good for the average tourist. There’s really not much to do. But one cannot go to Jordan and not visit the Dead Sea and float there. $17 was the cost of transportation to and from the Dead Sea. And $29 to dip yourself in the Red Sea at the cheapest resort (Amman Beach Resort). You could possibly find a spot along the road to jump in the water, but it’s not the safest nor cleanest. I forked the money over pouting again at the ticket office at the fact that Jordanians paid half the price. Damn I am cheap.

Once in, it was pretty much 100 degrees Fahrenheit. So you dip yourself in the Dead Sea for around 20 minutes and leave, otherwise you may turn into a mutant. It’s quite funny when you take a dip in the Dead Sea. The reason why you can do this is because it has one of the highest concentrations of salt in the water and due to the fact that you are denser than water, you automatically float. But it’s an awesome feeling.  Like you’re floating in space. You feel like you’re a kid again as you spin in circles. You do the typical newspaper reading while floating. You try to swim and ultimately fail. Then you just relax until you can’t take the heat any more. During my time there, I befriended a Japanese traveler as we hung out the entire day in the water, taking awkward pictures of each other. There’s also a fresh water swimming pool at the top, where most people and families spend the majority of the time (not the actual Dead Sea). When it was all said and done, it’s a memorable experience and must do. Floating in the Dead Sea – check!

30 Days in Vietnam

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Vietnam

It's been a while but thought I'd scrap together some mental notes of the 30-day adventure that took me from southern to northern Vietnam.

My original dreams of doing a motorcycle trip from one tip of the country to the other dissipated the moment I arrived in Saigon. I had my fair share of experiences on a bike with the occasional bruise here and there, but I was caught off guard by the sheer number of bikes on the road. Or...what I tell people is that I didn't have the time. Excuses.

Looking back, Vietnam is one of my favorite countries in the world due to its world-class street cuisine combined with its rich culture and eclectic mix of things to do from eating to caving to eating some more. Not to mention you could get all that on $10/day...let's relive some memories and start from the South!

 

SAIGON

Call it Saigon or Ho Chi Minh but one thing is for sure, there is no shortage of people, bikes, and good food. Besides getting a bad haircut for $5, Saigon was everything I could ask for. My friend, Johnson, was studying Vietnamese in Saigon, so I mostly hung out with him and some new local friends. We just ate and ate and ate. It just so happened these new friends were tour guides for Saigon Hotpot, a group of young people who give local tours in exchange for English practice (this is huge in Vietnam!). Another afternoon was spent tunneling the infamous Cu Chi tunnels, a vast network of underground tunnels used by the Viet Cong.

And because my full-scale motorbike tour was no longer viable, I decided to take the next best option...Vietnamese sleeper buses. On to...Da Lat!

DA LAT

$3/night dorm room with a free breakfast and Vietnamese coffee...one of the highlights of my life! Da Lat is probably one of the most affordable places I've been to and the best part? It's beautiful! A whole week in Saigon for the average introvert can be draining, and my first experience with the Vietnamese sleeper bus was the first of many horror rides. But the mountain city of Da Lat was the perfect getaway.

Again, thanks to my new friends in Saigon, I was introduced to a few other friends in Da Lat. We met for dinner the first night for some local cuisine and traversed the city streets, as there was a huge parade with lion dancing and music to commemorate the Mid-Autumn Festival.

The following morning, I rented a motorbike and explored the countryside for the day, stopping here and there to traverse a waterfall or two and appreciating the local culture. There's no freer feeling than riding through green pastures with the wind gliding past your face with absolutely no obligations at all but to explore.

 

HOI AN

Probably my favorite and the most scenic city in all of Vietnam (also a UNESCO World Heritage Site). There's nothing like waking up for sunrise and exploring silence of Old Town before the city awakes. A visit to the famous Central Market right after is a good idea to see the locals at work, buying and selling anything and everything from seafood to greens. 

Old Town is photography heaven. It's also a different view at day and night. And heaven isn't complete without banh mi. Anthony Bourdain once declared Banh Mi Phuong's banh mi as the "best Vietnamese sandwich in the world." Needless to say, I came back 3 more times.

I ended up spending a few extra days in Hoi An biking and exploring nearby villages and spending a beach day because I loved it so much. Many people do as well, and I can't wait to get back. 

 

PHONG NHA

Adventure. Caving. Karst mountains. Wait, no one told me ever about this part of Vietnam. If there were a hidden secret, this is it. As of now? Just backpackers and caving enthusiasts huddle together on a one-block street of empty guest houses that's referred to as "town."

However, empty as it may seem, Phong Nha has one of the biggest caving systems in the world - ripe for adventure. Not only will you witness some of the most spectacular caves in the world, but it's an adventure seeker's paradise. Highlight of the trip was the Dark Cave, which combines ziplining, kayaking, swimming (in the darkness!), and caving until you reach the mud pits. Probably one of the most exhilarating things I've ever done. Not a fan of caves? Explore the park by motorbike...it'll just be you and the karst landscapes.

 

NINH BINH

Another hidden gem filled with some of the most impressive landscapes Southeast Asia has to offer. Getting to my guest house was an adventure through multiple rice fields but well worth it to arrive to a breathtaking "hostel" nestled between several rice fields and karst mountains.

Ninh Binh is known for its karst scenery, and everyone usually comes here to explore and explore Trang An on a boat. Beautiful place but it was also where I experienced the best of human kind...the type of experience that just awes you. While biking throughout the rice fields, I was caught in a thunder storm with nothing but my sun hat for protection. Shivering and huddled against a tree, a local couple kindly invited me in for shelter. They ended up feeding me and conversed with me through universal hand gestures. These were moments of kindness (one of many) that I experienced on the road and have touched me immensely.

 

CAT BA ISLAND

Forget Ha Long Bay...go to Cat Ba! Scenery wise, it's all the same. People and price wise? That's where you will win!

Countless travelers told us to skip Ha Long Bay (tourist trap) and head to Cat Ba. It was the right choice. And for $5 a night, we got a million dollar roof-top view that matches those on Ha Long Bay. A few of us who had met from Phong Nha decided to go motorbiking the next day and a boat cruise the following. Cat Ba island...what steal...we probably ended up spending 1/10th the cost of a traditional Ha Long Bay experience and received what we wanted in return...freedom, flexibility, and less people. 

 

HANOI

If Saigon was crazy packed, Hanoi seemed double that. Tired and weary, I was picked up by my Couchsurfing host as soon I got off the bus and taken to my new home to rest. My host owned an English language learning center, and I taught for the next few days. It was invigorating to work with students again, who were also my tour guides and food buddies. 

Hanoi as a city itself seems much more traditional and conservative compared to Saigon. If I were to use China as a comparison, I'd compare Hanoi to Beijing and Saigon to Shanghai. The dialect was a bit different and so was the food. Luckily, there is no shortage of good food anywhere in Vietnam.

 

SA PA

The last stop!

Trekking through rice paddies? Learning about Vietnam's ethnic minority groups? Yes and yes! I didn't want to stay in touristy Sa Pa, so I trekked a few miles towards Tavan village, where I found a homestay overlooking a valley of rice paddies. Throwing down my backpack, I plopped myself down on a chair at with a view, ordered a nice, cold Saigon beer, and equipped myself with some mosquito repellent to relax...life is good.

Trekking the next day brought me through Tavan's Hmong villages, where I bumped into quite a few locals and their water buffalo friends. My trail runners failed me here as I got stuck in quite a few muddy patches of the trail. But if there is such a thing as a cultural-adventurous hike, this would be it. 

 

REFLections

While I didn't get to do my motorcycle tour (yet), 30 days in Vietnam were a godsend. Vietnam is not only a culturally rich and gastronomical food hub, but it's also a country that has room for both adventure-seekers and urban coffee snobs alike. It still ceases to amaze me how much you can see and do in a country smaller than the size of California. At the same time, I've been humbled by meeting and hearing the stories of so many new friends. I'm yearning a banh mi at this very moment, and I just can't wait to get back.

South African Ride Along

Officers J & M AKA Official Goofballs...my Ride Along tour guides

Officers J & M AKA Official Goofballs...my Ride Along tour guides

You may have heard the term, “You’ll never know unless you ask.” In fact, it may be a term that consistently haunts you because you’ve been rejected so many times because you do ASK. But you really won’t know unless you ask.

Part of why I love traveling is not to just check things off my bucket list but to learn about the people, cultures, and issues surrounding the places I am visiting. Honestly, it’s the best education I’ve ever had. This is a big, big world and when you take the time to leave your circle of comfort, you’ll realize those news headlines are…what the...REALLY HAPPENING?! In fact, there is a plethora of awe-inspiring and humbling experiences just waiting around the corner…if you do decide to take that first peek. Be curious once again. Ask the questions. Be curious, be friendly, and be excited. Just don’t get slapped doing it. And you just might be granted access to a once-restricted realm that will blow your damn mind.

Let’s be honest. You probably can’t get access to secret confidential government information. You still can’t get with Jessica Alba even 10 years later. But you can do a whole lot of things depending on where you are. Just look at the guys and gals from VICE…they’ve managed to get footage from some of the deepest, foulest, and most forbidden places in the world.

But what’s the worst that could happen…

When South Africa comes to mind, one may think of Nelson Mandela, the Rainbow Nation, and crime. Crime because the country has one of the highest crime rates in the world. During my time there, I did meet many who had a phone or camera taken from them (albeit, it was also their fault for hanging around late at night). To be frank, I was also on extra alert given the warnings from everyone I met on the road. Don’t walk alone in South Africa. Be careful in South Africa.

Yes, crime is more rampant there than most countries, but there has got to be a reason why. While there are many avenues to learn about crime, I thought one of the best and safest ways was to perhaps ask the police. So I went to the Cape Town police station and requested a ride along.

Smiles up. Posture straight. Notebook ready. With a deep breath, I naively entered the gates of the police station thinking I was going to get what I want. As soon as I crossed the border, the dim and sinister atmosphere immediately turned my once-cheery appearance into a defensive demeanor to mirror the ambiance around me. No smiles. No police donuts. No police chief - I was told to come back tomorrow.

And so I did show up bright and early in the morning. Only to wait for several more hours in the cool-looking dungeons of Cape Town Police Station. The next several hours consisted of long glares at the only Asian around with the occasional “what the hell are you doing here?” Eventually, I was granted a ride along the following morning after several meetings with lieutenants and finally the police chief.

My Table Mountain Tour Guides

My Table Mountain Tour Guides

Tour of the Cape Town Dispatch Call Center

The following morning brought me buddied up with J & M, two members in charge of the PR for the Cape Town police. At first glance, both looked intimidating with their police uniforms and trench coats. But as soon as they opened their mouths, I found out they were jokesters who made me laugh the entire time I was there. They drove me around a bit and explained to me how most of the crime in the city is merely petty theft and due to the installation of citywide cameras, much of the crime has decreased in the past 5 years. We visited the communications tower and observed how emergency calls were relayed and officers dispatched. They even treated me to a Gatsby sandwich (Cape Town local sandwich) at a local eatery. It was quite the eventful morning, and all I had to do was just ask.

And that is the power of just asking. It’s quite easy actually once you get the hang of it. When you present yourself as a nice and curious person, I’ve found out that most people are willing to share with you a little part of their world. It was the case when I wanted to learn more about human elephant conflict and asked to shadow a conservationist in Zambia. And when I wanted to learn more about the HIV problem in South Africa, I walked into a local HIV clinic and interviewed the doctors, nurses, and patients there. Furthermore, the same goes when you just want to learn more about another person from another world – just say hello and ask.

HIV Clinic Consultation in which patients are assessed and educated on how to live a long, healthy life with HIV.

So really…the worst that can happen is to never ask at all. You don't really need to be a real-life journalist or documentarian to learn about the issues facing this world. Countless problems plague this world and most people are more than willing to share their stories or life's work...some times it's as easy as saying hello and just asking.

Conflict at the Israel Palestine Border Crossing

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The bus came to a slow halt as we neared the Jerusalem border. One by one, the hazy faces of the men and women with guns and bullet-proof vests slowly became visible through the reflective windows of the Arab bus. I felt like an intruder. An intruder invading enemy territory.

As soon as the bus stopped, the Arabs habitually got up and exited the bus, while the few tourists and those with official Israel IDs remained on the bus to be checked. A small man slithered onto the bus with what seemed like a strain of Napoleon Complex, demanding everyone pull out their ID cards.

Not all Arabs exited the bus as some actually hold authentic Israeli ID cards, but people told me that even with their Israeli ID cards, they are still hassled by the border police.

This was evidenced right in front of me as the Israeli soldier began berating the Arab woman and her child in the seat in front of me. Madness ensued as the woman was trying to plead her case…shouting in every direction…the Arab bus driver got involved trying to defend her…the soldiers pushed him aside…and I thought, “Something is going to go down..."

At that point, every breath I took contained a giant gulp of shock mixed with a heart full of trauma.  I shakily looked to my left as the European girls were crying at what just transpired. What just happened?

At the end, everyone reached Jerusalem safely and in one piece. As I exited, I asked the bus driver what happened…

Because this is Israel.”

I try to take a neutral stance wherever I go but when you see unequal treatment of human beings (especially with a child), you can’t help but to take a side. But like the Arab driver said, “because this is Israel.” That’s what makes this place so surreal…to witness the cruel realities of modern day civilization but captivating in the sense that you are visiting one of the oldest and most sacred areas in the world for Jews, Muslims, and Christians. The place where Jesus was supposedly buried. The center of the universe. The ancient city containing the Muslim, Jewish, and Christian quarters. Diversity at its finest.

Issues aside…this place is fascinating. Whether you are a history geek or one who loves to take in the world with the good and the bad.

Take a walk through the Old City - you’ll feel the clock has turned back 1,000 years.

Old City Charm

Old City Charm

Witness the infamous Wall (and its art work) separating Israel and Palestine – this is your modern day Berlin Wall. Banksy was here.

Bethlehem Walking Tour

Bethlehem Walking Tour

But oh my budget, Israel is pretty damn expensive. Cheapest hostel I was able to find was $17 a night, and I thought Jordan was expensive...but that meant biscuits for breakfast and chips for lunch. Then I may splurge on dinner with two or three street falafels. 

But take some time visiting both Israel and Palestine – you’ll understand firsthand the issues you've always heard about. Talk to the locals. Israelis. Palestinians. Open up your eyes and ears and you may receive the most valuable classroom lesson of all.